The bolts that hold the starter in are E-14 torx sockets. I went to leave for work and its dead. This alignment and the final tightening of the first bolt would allow the blind bolt installation to go smoother. I did the job today in 2 hours and would have never thought to do it that way. I found this was way easier than the prospect of fishing an extension along the drive shaft and having a buddy guide it, etc. The second and last bolt is easy to see and follows the same concept as step 5.
Be sure you know the code for your passive theft protection for your radio if it has that feature because it will probably need to be reentered after reconnecting the battery. Figure 15 Working at the front of the intake manifold, pull the evaporative emission purge solenoid off the mounting bracket. Reinstallation is reverse of removal. Make sure you don't deform the tube. I just want to get it going so I can drop it off at the garage. Im gonna scream if this is another one of those bmw problems The N52 motor has a stater habit.
Im gonna scream if this is another one of those bmw problems Quote Originally Posted by jlex Is this a bmw thing Ive owned many cars in my life and put high mileage on them without ever replacing a single starter. You've just removed the starter without removing or unscrewing any other part on the car and they said it couldn't be done!!! When I start the car it often takes a couple of seconds holding the key before it starts. Well it wasnt easy and it was a pain to replace. Tap the starter with a long pry bar or screw driver towards the front of the car. Who has tackled this and what is the best approach.
I took to a mechanic and he told me the problem is not the battery or alternator. Total time to replace 4. As I re-read this thread I realized that my last update was incorrect. This should put you along the drive shaft near the transfer case to give you the leverage you need to ease that bolt out. You're doing this part now, while the starter is still in place, so as to give you the counter leverage you need to loosen the nuts.
Remove the driver side wheel remove the black accumulator the starter is just above that. Also heres a left field question when I replaced the starter I had to remove the vacuum Bomb thing that controls the tailpipe Im not sure what that means exactly but from my other bmws Quote Originally Posted by timarnold Sorry to hear the switch didnt work out. Both myself and dealership can not figure out problem. I took the old one to Autozone and it tested good, so I actually did this job all over again a second time to reinstall old starter and return the one I bought. Mine was slightly corroded in place, so I took 2-3 ft long, skinny piece of wood and used a mallet to it like a chisel to unseat -- angling the wood mostly from back, toward the front of the car.
Thanks a million for the great advice guys. If you're unsure what's wrong, and you know the battery and alternator are good, maybe try the switch before jacking up the car. Check that all gaskets are properly seated before installing the intake manifold. As tough as this job is, it is doable. Now that both bolts are out you need to remove the bolt 13mm that holds the dip stick bracket. The torx bolts you did before this step, because the bolt heads point away from you, will get your head twisted.
Make sure you're loosening, not tightening, as this bolt will be backward from your position. Do not work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability. Bought a new battery Quote Originally Posted by joylove They are an early failure item and usually give plenty of warning of impending death by chewing up batteries and turning over slowly. Took me about 20 minutes, a strong magnet, and 2 Miller Lites to retrieve it. Also make note that this white wire is skinnier than the first you removed and you'll want to put this connection back on first when installing. I followed a similar path for starter-swap on my wife's X3 - refusing to remove the air plenum, intake, etc. Inspect with flashlight and begin by loosening torx bolt closest to you with the 10mm ratcheting offset wrench it threads back to front from the transmission side.
You've just removed the starter without removing or unscrewing any other part on the car and they said it couldn't be done!!! I did this job last night. Have a rag handy to catch any dripping fuel. Problems on my X3 starter problems and transmission problems. Remove items you used to seal the intake ports on the cylinder head. So, they torn the back hatch apart and check for power with a test light and then it would never run after that.
They must have used a shoddy starter cuz it sounds weak already now at 125K. The hard part is over, seriously. It will be close to the bottom of the engine block where the transmission meets the engine. Hoping I have the good hard cranks that jakehammond is getting. Anybody else had this problem I hoped the high dollar repairs were done at 85000 miles when I had to have the transfer case replaced 4000.
Lay the fuel injector harness aside. This is what I used. Installation is reverse, with hardest part being the leverage to seat the new starter into the likely corroded metal dowel pin. Originally Autozone was the only location that had a starter in stock however when I got the starter out it was incorrect so be aware of the autozone starter. Installation is reverse, with hardest part being the leverage to seat the new starter into the likely corroded metal dowel pin. Removing the heater core is time consuming but it will save you about 700 dollars. Install the new one in the reversed order.