That would depend on where the noise is coming from. Otherwise, the belt will simply ride on the clutch pulley without any problems. Remove power steering reservoir line nut and two bolts retaining pump line at engine lifting eye and steering pump bracket. The timing chain is good for 150k miles or so before I'd replace it unless you hear it rattling around in there. Driveability problems may exist until computer systems have completed a relearn cycle.
Is that your way of saying it's not running right? Maneuver the alternator out through the passenger side wheel well. Most likely it is not directly related to the job but then again it could be something not correctly torqued or loose. Release tensioner and rotate the crank shaft till the timing belt makes two full circles. I'm subscribed to this thread so if anyone needs any more help just post! I can't help you much because changing my timing belt and changing your timing belt are two different things, they are totally different. If all oK - take a permanent marker and mark one tooth on the back side of each cam gear that is closest to the valve cover seat and almost directly opposit each other. Remove right front wheel assembly. Also purchase an 24mm open end wrench to hold the lugs ground onto both of the camshafts to keep them from turning while you loosen the sprocket bolts one at a time.
Align the crank shaft on the mark, and find out how many teeth you are off at the cam shaft pulley. I can only suggest that you get a mechanic to take a look and see what they think, as for a different fuel rail, I doubt that any other would work or fit for that matter, can you post a pic of where it should be? It is only advised to do the timing belt with these special tools. Noise faults are something that are almost impossible to diganose without the physical vehicle. Did they make different fuel rails for the 2. How, where and what type of noise is required to diagnose and you need to localise the source and possible cause.
Iï¿½m pretty sure itï¿½s an interference engine which is why itï¿½s imperative that you change the timing belt. Answer On my 98 Ford Contour, it was in the same location as above. To install, reverse removal procedure. Zetec is a non-interference motor. Remove two screws retaining coolant reservoir to fender and one screw at hose from inner fender. The hose attached to the valve is connected to a metal pipe which makes it a little screwy to get out but if you just work with it you'll get it.
Under load it runs erratically and logs 0340, 1380, 1381, 1383 - the whole show. You can learn alot from them. Also noted is: If differences exist between the plug specified on the emis … sions label and the owner's manual or in this chapter's specifications, assume that the vehicle emissions label is correct. That's the one that can give people trouble because there are multiple wires on one of the large terminals. There are 4 different engines that were made in that car. Disconnect starter solenoid wire connections. I found it easier to remove the heat shield held on by 4 bolts, and with a long screwdriver in between the exhaust manifold, was able to pry the pcv valve away.
Electronic returnless fuel system does not use a fuel pressure regulator. Install center cover and bolts. It's supposed to be on the top by the throttle body but it's not. Sk8tr is right it's an non-interferance engine. Ford Contour automotive parts are available in the market to make sure that existence of these vehicles will not fade into oblivion.
Takes a little thinking, but it'll come out. You can also ask for the gap size where you purchase the spark plugs. There is a small bracket on the alternator between mounting bolts. After you pull the old timing belt along with the lower serpentine pulley from the crank shaft. Also, check all the pulleys that it gos over to make sure they aren't loose. I pull over to the side of the road then turn off the key for a moment or two and then it starts right back up until I put a load on the engine again and then it's a viscous process all over again.
Turn the engine to top dead center. If you need to get them off, you need to keep in mind that they are pressed onto the cams. I have to say, this is not a job for someone who is not fully prepared. Tighten bolts to 6-8 Nm 53-71 lb-in. Position the front insulator and power steering hose bracket. Cheers, Ken There's four different starter systems Ford used over the years.
Ford has a special tool that fits on the camshafts to line them up. Before testing starter, ensure transmission is in Park or Neutral. This will work to solve your problem even if your compressor is locked-up see above. The answer is No---------Not if it is a non-interference engine----You can find out whether or not an engine is interference or non-interference on the Gates drivebelt website www. Remove crankshaft pulley shield screws and shield.
Remove three front insulator bolts and insulator. I had to take it all apart again and do it the right way. Let me know if the pics are viewable. If that's not what you have, describe the wires. Tighten to 6-8 Nm 53-71 lb-in.