Is this similar to your problem? Thanks so much for your advice, I hope you can take the time to read this last post and make a suggestion on where i should go from here. If it happens again then you might want to take a better look at the condition of the fuel in the tank and find out what kind of gunk it might be sucking up out of there. In the process of removing it and all the tinkering perhaps it became unclogged and decided to start working again : I would be very concerned about my fuel supply if it ever came out looking like you described. I dont have a tach but based on engine noise and vibration i'm guessing that i was up between 5500 and 6000 rpm. If the pump is getting a good voltage supply, the ground connection is good and the fuel pressure is not within specification, then replace the pump. I think this is very unlikely 4.
This must be the system on the '98. What you have said about premature burn-out due to clogging is interesting because that ties in with what I was just saying - the greater the physical resistance that it has to work against then the more strain that will be placed on the pump itself and the more current it will consume and therefore the greater the wattage which it will be dissipating - none of which are particularly good for the pump or the driver circuit. However, since i do not have 'good voltage' at the pump, there might be something else wrong in the fuel pump driver module which is the only thing between the inertia switch and the fuel pump in the wiring diagram. Next, remove the extension lead and connect the meter positive probe directly to the fuel pump negative connector, and this time extend the meter negative lead back to the battery negative terminal and, probing directly onto the terminal post, take a note of the voltage. Although the American Ford Escort did not win many major awards, the European model won the European Car of the Year award for 1981.
It just seems like it could get messy. I have no idea where this module is or what it looks like but i am guessing that it is somewhere under the steering wheel. Provided that the vehicle performs well at higher speeds high fuel flow rates and provided that the engine is not hesitating and shows no signs of being short of fuel, then I don't think you need worry any further, beyond of course bearing in mind that the contents of the fuel tank remain in question, because it was almost certainly debris or sludge from the tank which caused the initial malfunction in the fuel pump. Then i wired the multimeter in series to measure current and found that during that initial few second burst, the pump draws 4. Routine was all done to keep it going. When i traced the wires to the fuel pump the harness going into the pump has 6 wires 2 for the guage, 2 for the warning light and 2 for the pump.
One thing has just occurred to me, which is that if you have dirty relay contacts then they could be causing this. Hopefully, the worst of the sludge will by now have made its way through the pump and been caught at the now discarded fuel filter, and hopefully from here on in the fuel system should be cleaner and more reliable. I'm sorry to hear about your loss. This results in variable speed fuel pump operation. In 1990, the model received a major overhaul, including the addition of an independent rear suspension, which was not seen very often in compact cars at the time. But yes my escort now runs and all I did was replaced the shattered pulley and the timing belt so I guess its not and interference engine? With the third generation design, the Escort became Ford's entry in the sport compact field.
That's all hypothesis, and I may be forcing the recorded voltage readings to fit in with a theory but it is a possible explanation of why the pump voltage might legitimately fluctuate intentionally, by design. I have a 97 Escort and the same thing happened while I was at a stop light. I have done this and, as i mentioned, the voltage was only 7. It says The fuel pump drivers module is located inside the vechicle, behind the Left hand wheel housing. I wouldn't have the charger on the 10 amp setting - I'd select the lowest current setting that you have - I'd guess that a couple of amps would be plenty. I am quite interested in measuring the current draw however, unfortunately i do not have a benchmark ie.
. On later Ford models, there is no return fuel line from the fuel rail to the tank. With ten body styles produced over the three generations of its development, from sport coupes to hatchback station wagons, enough variety was included in the line to make the Escort Ford's automobile for the masses. I would start out at the fuse 15, measure both sides. That's good news, dllewell - pleased to hear that your efforts were rewarded with success. Especially when it is doen from inside the car! The fold down rear seats have inside buttons which means you do not have to open the trunk to pull a knob.
The 97 and 98 are completely different according to the wiring diagrams in Chilton. Second time, apparently it was defective belt. Sure the pump runs, but for how long? Our Take on the 1998 Ford Escort The Ford Motor Co. In some countries, people do not legally have the choice to decide any of the above; it is your responsibility to comply with local laws. Detailed features and specs for the Used 1998 Ford Escort including fuel economy, transmission, warranty, engine type, cylinders, drivetrain and more.
This, too will have to wait till next week. I was planning on keeping the car longer when I had the remanufactured engine put in, but plans change. That's what causes the bright blue sparking which you will often see when connecting a voltage even a low voltage to a load - it's the high-voltage back-emf thereby induced which is capable of jumping the gap between the terminals which are in the process of being connected. Your idea of comparing another '98's voltages is right on target! In that case I would set the charger to a 2 or 5 amp setting. And what do you know? This makes things easier because you shouldn't need to extend the meter lead by any great length. For the last 2 days, the car has been running fine. Not likely to be the fault in your case but still worth a look.